Mostly Finished Pet en l'air

I've mostly finished my Curtain Along piece:

 

  Looking pensively off into the distance.

It took some time, but I finally decided that I would do a pet en l'air.  Having both the Patterns of Fashion pattern and the write up in Costume in Detail for the 1740s jacket pretty much made the decision for me.

I used Koshka's amazing tutorial for Sacque Back dresses.  This was the second time that I have used it, and it is really helpful; she really lays out the process.  The only thing is, I have not had success with draping the front, simply because of my bust issues.  So, I tried setting up a pattern for the front:

This resulted in a problem later, just because of the angle of the curve from the shoulder down the front.  It's the pointy bit in the pattern above near the center chest.  I'll be taking this out of the pattern and smoothing the line straight from the shoulder to the hem in the future.  I also ended up having to deal with some craziness when I added on robings down the front.  I did them as separate pieces to try to simplify the process of the front of the jacket.  In the future, I'd like to be able to drape the entire front, robing included.  But, if I go with a pattern again, I will definitely add them on at the pattern stage.

 

This is lining back with the spacing in the back.  I think the back of the pattern, as usual, is too high in the back.  But since my corset is too high in the back, I'll live with it until I force myself to make a new one.

Look at those gorgeous hand sewn lacing holes.  Tiny, but pretty!  I'm very happy with them.

The back draped and then a big jump to the front draped and the sleeves sewn in.  I used my standard sleeve pattern, and tried the sewing method that Koshka talks about in the tutorial in the sleeve section, sewing the lining and outer sleeve together at the same time.  All of this Pet is hand sewn.

Poor Sabine does not squish down enough to wear my corset.  So, I have to do a bit of estimating when I'm working with her.  Which makes the lining super important for this style of jacket (and dress).

Here's the front opening on me (before the sleeves were added - pics are a bit out of order); it's much smaller than on Sabine.  And yes, it's way past time for me to make a new corset - the front is totally overlapping, and things have shifted around a bit.  I know, I know.  LOL

And here are the final pics:

The reason that I call this mostly done is because I really do want to change the angle on the front of the bodice, and I need to tighten up one of the side seams as it's a little big.  I'm also not quite happy with the stomacher piece that I made.  It needs a couple of more openings put in, and right now it's just pinned in the traditional way on the sides of the bodice.  The original piece has it sewn in to the sides of the bodice and open down the middle, held together with hooks and eyes.

I have enough of the curtain fabric left to make a hat, so that's a someday project.  The hat I'm wearing, the cap and the stockings I bought at Williamsburg.  The red shoes are American Duchess' Kensingtons in red, with her Fleur buckles.

I absolutely adore this jacket and with the changes and finishing touches I think it will be truly excellent.  Unfortunately, I need to put these changes on the back burner while I make something I need to wear in a couple of weeks.  But this was an excellent project to get my sewing mojo back!